on the slow boat
A three hour tour...
The boat trip down Lake Tanganyika was a nice change of pace from our usual modes of transport (the overstuffed minibus). There was four of us heading down the lake, Dave Maher (the always suave British safari guide), Steve (British), and Pierre (French). We split up into two first class cabins, which had two beds each. The cabins were pretty good, they were clean, had a sink, closet, and it came with sheets! Luxury. The ship had a restaurant with local dishes and a small bar serving beers, cokes, and peanuts. On board there were three classes (1st, 2nd, and floor), since the boat is a combination cargo/people mover, there was always a lot of activity going on, including an usually high amount of breast feeding. The MV Liemba is the only way for many lakeside villages to get supplies and pretty much their only access to the 'outside world.' The lake is massive, it's really like an inland ocean. It's the second largest lake in Africa, and the second deepest lake in the world. When we got out into the middle of it, you couldn't see all the way across, just water all the way to the horizon. The trip was to take about 2 days and we were planning to get off on the 10th stop, Kasanga.
Overlooking Kigoma, the main port on Lake Tanganyika.
We spent a couple of pretty lazy days in Kigoma waiting for the boat to arrive and then leave, but it was a scenic place on the northern part of the lake, in western Tanzania. Pierre was recovering from Malaria and we were just ready to hit the water. We got going about 4 hours late, pretty standard, and sailed off.
The mighty ship. ~93 years old.
usual on deck activity.
sailing off into the sunset. Day 1.
The captains view.
early morning on the lake, quite serene.
Pirates!
well not exactly. Most of the villages which are serviced by the ship don't have any docks, so the only way for goods and people to get on or off is to use these little tender boats. For them, it's big business and they jockey for position as soon as the Liemba comes to a stop. The guys climb aboard and get the stuff and people off the big boat and into their little one. A frenzy of activity.
The Steve. There was plenty of time to read, write in journals, and stare off into the distance. Day 2.
The mighty MV Liemba after we pulled into port at our destination: Kasanga, Tanzania.
Since the ship was late the bus we were to catch left earlier that morning, so we hiked into town and spent the night a local guest house. The place had no running water, just a bucket which collected the rain water off the roof. No electricity in the town, but this place had a small generator which ran the TV and Dish system, so we were blessed with South African soap operas at loud volume into the night. Priorities...
road scene, Malawi
The goat killer. This Toyota HiAce, the minibus of choice throughout Africa, hit a goat on the way to Mzuzu, the driver didn't even flinch, just kept on going. The goat was probably killed instantly as it was a clean head shot on the steel front bumper.
When we would stop to let people on or off during the minibus journey we had the option to buy various kinds of cooked fish. Delicious.
Local kids enjoying the digital camera. They would laugh in hysterics each time I showed them their photo.
Sunset from our dorm room, Nhkata Bay, Lake Malawi.
Dave and Cheryl, on Nhkata Bay. We first met Cheryl in Rwanda, she's Canadian on a African holiday and heading South also. So we all met up in Nhkata Bay for a few days. Steve and Cheryl have since headed to Victoria Falls, I'm hoping to meet up with them again soon.
Mayoka Village, our fantastic hostel on Lake Malawi.
Me on board the boat.
The boat trip down Lake Tanganyika was a nice change of pace from our usual modes of transport (the overstuffed minibus). There was four of us heading down the lake, Dave Maher (the always suave British safari guide), Steve (British), and Pierre (French). We split up into two first class cabins, which had two beds each. The cabins were pretty good, they were clean, had a sink, closet, and it came with sheets! Luxury. The ship had a restaurant with local dishes and a small bar serving beers, cokes, and peanuts. On board there were three classes (1st, 2nd, and floor), since the boat is a combination cargo/people mover, there was always a lot of activity going on, including an usually high amount of breast feeding. The MV Liemba is the only way for many lakeside villages to get supplies and pretty much their only access to the 'outside world.' The lake is massive, it's really like an inland ocean. It's the second largest lake in Africa, and the second deepest lake in the world. When we got out into the middle of it, you couldn't see all the way across, just water all the way to the horizon. The trip was to take about 2 days and we were planning to get off on the 10th stop, Kasanga.
Overlooking Kigoma, the main port on Lake Tanganyika.
We spent a couple of pretty lazy days in Kigoma waiting for the boat to arrive and then leave, but it was a scenic place on the northern part of the lake, in western Tanzania. Pierre was recovering from Malaria and we were just ready to hit the water. We got going about 4 hours late, pretty standard, and sailed off.
The mighty ship. ~93 years old.
usual on deck activity.
sailing off into the sunset. Day 1.
The captains view.
early morning on the lake, quite serene.
Pirates!
well not exactly. Most of the villages which are serviced by the ship don't have any docks, so the only way for goods and people to get on or off is to use these little tender boats. For them, it's big business and they jockey for position as soon as the Liemba comes to a stop. The guys climb aboard and get the stuff and people off the big boat and into their little one. A frenzy of activity.
The Steve. There was plenty of time to read, write in journals, and stare off into the distance. Day 2.
The mighty MV Liemba after we pulled into port at our destination: Kasanga, Tanzania.
Since the ship was late the bus we were to catch left earlier that morning, so we hiked into town and spent the night a local guest house. The place had no running water, just a bucket which collected the rain water off the roof. No electricity in the town, but this place had a small generator which ran the TV and Dish system, so we were blessed with South African soap operas at loud volume into the night. Priorities...
road scene, Malawi
The goat killer. This Toyota HiAce, the minibus of choice throughout Africa, hit a goat on the way to Mzuzu, the driver didn't even flinch, just kept on going. The goat was probably killed instantly as it was a clean head shot on the steel front bumper.
When we would stop to let people on or off during the minibus journey we had the option to buy various kinds of cooked fish. Delicious.
Local kids enjoying the digital camera. They would laugh in hysterics each time I showed them their photo.
Sunset from our dorm room, Nhkata Bay, Lake Malawi.
Dave and Cheryl, on Nhkata Bay. We first met Cheryl in Rwanda, she's Canadian on a African holiday and heading South also. So we all met up in Nhkata Bay for a few days. Steve and Cheryl have since headed to Victoria Falls, I'm hoping to meet up with them again soon.
Mayoka Village, our fantastic hostel on Lake Malawi.
Me on board the boat.
posted by Patrick Moloney at
5:21 AM
1 Comments:
Dear Patrick:
Although we've never met, I feel a kinship with you - I'm a friend of your Dad's. My name's Eileen Barnes and Jim and I started out as client and financial advisor.
The friendship has grown with the diminishment of my funds.(I'm 82 and slowly using up my capital).
He told me about your adventure and gave me your site name and I'm here to tell you I LOVE IT.
I envy you your earthwalk and intend to follow you via your journal.
Happy traveling. May you accrue wisdom and understanding through your journeys.
Eileen
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Anonymous, at March 31, 2006 1:02 PM
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